I was up on a ladder in this old house in Richmond, working around a window that wasn't square by a long shot. Decided to use my 48-inch level instead of the T-square because I figured the bubble would keep me honest. Ended up cutting the board three times before I got it right, but the level saved me from a huge gap on the top. The homeowner came in and asked if I was building a ship in a bottle or something. Anyone else ditch the T-square when things get weird?
I spent 45 minutes fighting paper tape on a outside corner that kept bubbling up, then my coworker said he always pre-fills beads with mud first to avoid that. Has anyone else found the extra step worth the time savings on the back end?
Was finishing a 1,200 square foot ceiling in a house off Maple Street in Denver. Spent 3 hours taping and didn't realize the compound was too thick, so by the time I got to the other end, the first coat was already cracking. Had to scrape it all off and start over with a thinner mix. Anybody else had this bite them on a big flat ceiling?
The ratchet strap gave out right as I was screwing off the last edge, sent my sheet crashing through a light fixture hole, and now I'm stuck patching a 3-foot gash before the homeowner gets back from vacation tomorrow, has anyone else had a lift fail on them mid-install?
I thought the power tool would save me time but it just splattered mud everywhere and was a nightmare to clean. The cheap hand mixer gives me better control and I lost maybe $250 selling it used. Anyone else waste money on a tool that looked like a time saver but wasn't?
I've been hanging drywall in the Portland area for about 6 years now, and I keep a little notebook with my board counts. This morning I hit 500 batches without a single tape joint crack coming back on me. It's a small thing, but it means I'm finally getting my mudding consistency right every time. Does anyone else keep a personal record of their work stats, or am I weird for tracking this stuff?
Been doing this 8 years now. That number surprised me because I never counted before. Anyone else keep track of their totals?
I spent 12 years using paper tape on every joint (even corners, which was dumb) because that's how my old boss taught me in Phoenix. Last week I finally tried fibafuse mesh on a ceiling repair after a customer insisted on it, and I'll be honest - it didn't crack or bubble at all. Has anyone else switched from paper to mesh and found it worth the extra cost?
Was on a job in Arlington last Tuesday, doing a big basement finish. This old timer walks through, looks at my pan, and just says 'your mud is to stiff man'. I mean I always thought thicker was better less drips. He showed me to mix it wetter than I ever tried felt like soup honestly. But man the way it spread out flat with no dragging marks. First coat looked better than my usual second coat. Anyone else ever get told they run their mud to dry?
I had to fix a 2x3 foot hole in a living room ceiling last Thursday. Thought I'd be clever and use only durabond 90 for the whole thing, taping and all. Figured it'd save me a trip for all-purpose compound. Big mistake. That stuff sets way too fast when you're working overhead. I was scrambling to smooth it out and it kept grabbing my knife. Ended up with a lumpy mess that took twice as long to sand. Never again. Anybody else try to skip materials and pay for it later?
I was bitching about how long taping takes and Gary just laughed and said he spends 20 minutes pre-filling every joint with mud before taping, no tape first. Said it cuts his finish time by a hour per room cause the mud shrinks even. Has anyone else tried pre-filling first or is that just some old school thing?
I've been using those plastic bullnose corners for years and always fighting with them cracking or not sticking right. Last Tuesday on a house over in Oakwood I ran out of plastic ones and had to grab a box of the old metal paper-faced beads I hadn't touched since like 2019. Dude the metal ones just lay flat and the mud grabs them perfect. No bubbles no warping nothing. It took me maybe 20 minutes less per corner and I didn't have to redo a single one. I think I got sold on plastic being 'easier' but the metal ones just work better for me. Anyone else switch back to the old style after trying the fancy stuff?
I see guys all the time saying you gotta use hot mud or setting compound for those big gaps between sheets. But about a year ago on a job in Toledo I was out of 20 minute and just said screw it, filled a 1/4 inch gap with all purpose plus some water. Worked it in good with my 6 inch knife. Came back the next day and it was fine. No cracking, no issues. Been doing it ever since. Saves me a trip to the supply house. Has anyone else tried thinning it out more than the usual pancake batter consistency?
I used to struggle with inside corners bubbling up every time until a seasoned taper at my local supply house in Austin told me to use a flat box for the first coat instead of a knife. Has anyone else tried this and seen cleaner results on their first pass?
I was working a 1970s house remodel last week and the old paper tape in the corners was still tight as a drum, but these new plastic beads I tried on a new build cracked after one season of settling, so has anyone else noticed the older methods holding up better over time?
I was cleaning out my truck and found a bucket of joint compound I bought back in March. Checked the label and it expires after 6 months. That stuff was probably ruining my finish for the last 3 jobs. Anyone else ever use expired mud and not notice?
I walked into Denver Drywall Supply for mud on Tuesday and nearly gagged from the chemical reek, made me realize how much I take our ventilated jobsite for granted. Anyone else run into a supplier where the fumes are just too much?
He watched me struggle with a 12-foot corner bead on a Tuesday morning, then told me to cut them to size on the ground first, and I save about 20 minutes per room now, has anyone else found a time-saver like that?
He said I was mixing my joint compound way too thick and showed me his trick of adding just a splash more water. Saved me so much sanding time on a ceiling job yesterday, has anyone else gotten a simple tip that changed their whole routine?
I used to do all my ceiling work with a T-bar and a buddy holding the sheet up. Then I turned 40 and my back said no more. So I grabbed a used drywall lift off Facebook Marketplace for $60 from a guy who was retiring. First time I used it on a 12-foot ceiling in a garage remodel, I felt like an idiot for not buying one years ago. No more fighting with sheets that weigh a ton or having a helper show up late. I still keep the T-bar for small patches but for anything over 8 feet, that lift is worth every penny. You guys still using a helper or have you switched to a lift?
Was grabbing mud at ABC Supply in Denver and the old timer behind the counter said he's seen more callbacks from guys using paper tape on inside corners than anything else. He's been at that desk 22 years. Has anyone else noticed paper tape giving you grief on tight corners?
I always pre-fill deep tapered joints before taping, but on a 12-room spec house I decided to save time and just mud over them. Figured the taper wasn't that bad, but the tape bubbled up in three spots and I had to cut and patch. Has anyone else found a way to skip pre-fill without issues, or is it always a risk?
I usually just grab whatever box of screws is closest on the truck, but last week on a job in Eugene I ran out of my usual ones and had to buy whatever the hardware store had. Ended up with regular coarse thread drywall screws instead of my normal self tappers. Man what a difference. The self tappers bite right in and you barely have to change your angle, but those coarse threads kept slipping off the stud and I had to push harder which threw my rhythm off completely. I was getting mad and the driver was getting on my case about taking too long. By the end of the day my wrist was sore and I had maybe 3 popped screws I had to fix. Switched back to self tappers the next day and finished a whole room without one issue. Has anyone else noticed a big difference between these two types on metal studs?
I always used a small knife for mudding corners, thinking I needed the control, but a guy at the supply house in Denver told me to try a bigger one. The 12-inch laid down a perfect bead on my third try, no bubbles or ridges. Has anyone else made a similar switch that felt wrong at first but worked way better?