Question about diagnosing fridge compressor issues
I used to just listen for the hum and check for power, but after a string of misdiagnoses last year, I started using a Supco M500 multimeter to check the windings and the actual amp draw. The change came after I replaced a perfectly good compressor on a Whirlpool in a client's home in Tempe, only to find it was a bad relay. Now I always verify with the meter first. What's your go-to method for a solid compressor diagnosis before you pull the trigger on a replacement?
Ever notice how a high amp draw with normal voltage just screams a mechanical bind? That clamp saved me last week on a blower that looked fine but was pulling way over. Data plate numbers don't lie.